{
  "abstract": "Standard ISO testing of cosmetic emulsions offers limited insight into the microstructural mechanisms governing long-term stability. We hypothesize that a single weight-percent increase in emulsifier concentration is sufficient to determine, through its effect on inter-bilayer junction connectivity, whether the lamellar gel network consolidates or fails. To test this, we apply a two-tier strategy combining ISO/TR 18811 testing and Turbiscan turbidimetry with rheology, laser diffraction, and AI-assisted polarized light microscopy, on two oil-in-water emulsions structured by a lamellar gel network and stabilized by Cetearyl Alcohol/Cetearyl Glucoside at 2 wt% (Emulsion A) and 3 wt% (Emulsion B) over 30 days of storage. First-tier testing distinguished formulations only at Day 30; Turbiscan index values (2.64, 1.78) stayed below threshold throughout. The second-tier protocol resolved structural divergence from Day 8 to 15, two to three weeks earlier. In Emulsion A, a transient birefringent fraction (51.5% at Day 8) preceded network disruption, droplet coalescence, and a drift of the loss tangent toward more liquid-like values. In Emulsion B, birefringence expanded to 98.4% by Day 30 and the loss tangent declined to 0.325. These results indicate that a 1 wt% difference in emulsifier concentration, within a range of industrial use, is sufficient to determine whether the lamellar gel network consolidates or fails, and that combining rheology, laser diffraction and AI-assisted microscopy resolves this divergence two to three weeks before conventional ISO criteria are met.",
  "abstract_shown": true,
  "affiliations": [],
  "article_type": null,
  "arxiv": null,
  "author_total": 6,
  "authors": [
    {
      "name": "Axel Viton"
    },
    {
      "name": "Raphaël Coatmeur"
    },
    {
      "name": "Béatrice Anthouard"
    },
    {
      "name": "Magalie Claeys-Bruno"
    },
    {
      "name": "Christophe Sauzet"
    },
    {
      "name": "Philippe Piccerelle"
    }
  ],
  "bibtex": "https://research.draconitic.com/paper/6ndmcrewtfqk5.bib",
  "cited_by": 0,
  "doi": "10.3390/cosmetics13040203",
  "fulltext_url": null,
  "id": "6ndmcrewtfqk5",
  "issns": [
    "2079-9284"
  ],
  "landing_url": "https://hal.science/hal-05734763v1",
  "language": "en",
  "licence": "CC-BY",
  "licence_label": "CC BY",
  "licence_source": "journal",
  "licence_url": "https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/",
  "metadata_licence": null,
  "native_subjects": [
    [
      "hal",
      "0.sde"
    ],
    [
      "hal",
      "1.sde.be"
    ],
    [
      "openalex",
      "1605|Surfactants and Colloidal Systems"
    ]
  ],
  "openalex": "W7202298505",
  "pdf_url": null,
  "pmcid": null,
  "pmid": null,
  "published": "2026-08-12",
  "publisher": "MDPI",
  "ris": "https://research.draconitic.com/paper/6ndmcrewtfqk5.ris",
  "sources": [
    {
      "first_seen": "2026-10-30T12:17:24Z",
      "native_id": "hal-05734763",
      "source": "hal",
      "url": "https://hal.science/hal-05734763v1"
    }
  ],
  "subjects": [
    {
      "field": "biology",
      "origin": "hal:1.sde.be",
      "subfield": "ecology"
    },
    {
      "field": "earth",
      "origin": "hal:0.sde",
      "subfield": "environmental-science"
    }
  ],
  "title": "Early Detection of Lamellar Gel Network Instability in Cosmetic Emulsions Using Rheology, Laser Diffraction, and AI-Assisted Microscopy",
  "title_text": "Early Detection of Lamellar Gel Network Instability in Cosmetic Emulsions Using Rheology, Laser Diffraction, and AI-Assisted Microscopy",
  "type": "peer-reviewed",
  "updated_at": "2026-10-30T12:17:24Z",
  "url": "https://research.draconitic.com/paper/6ndmcrewtfqk5",
  "venue": "Cosmetics",
  "versions": []
}