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Peer-reviewedCC BY-NC 4.0Geophysical Research Letters

Geometry of Breaking Waves Under Natural Sea Conditions

  • P. V. Guimaraes
  • C. E. Stringari
  • J-F Filipot
  • Fabien Leckler
  • A. Benetazzo
  • Bertrand Chapron
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Abstract

Wave breaking geometry is critical for understanding air‐sea interactions, yet its characterization in the field remains limited. This study analyzes the geometry of 16,369 active breaking waves, measured via stereo imagery in the Black Sea under diverse conditions. We investigate statistical relationships between key geometric properties, including breaking length, height, and speed. Our results reveal that geometric scaling is not constant but varies with the sea state, challenging established empirical models. The data indicate a weak relationship between breaking speed and wave geometry, while internal geometric properties show stronger linear relations. A subsequent test of self‐similarity, based on a heavy‐tailed log‐normal distribution, confirmed its rarity ( of events). This comprehensive geometric description underscores that wave breaking properties are sea‐state‐dependent.

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Cite

BibTeXRIS
BibTeX
@article{guimaraes2026geometry,
  title = {{Geometry of Breaking Waves Under Natural Sea Conditions}},
  author = {P. V. Guimaraes and C. E. Stringari and J-F Filipot and Fabien Leckler and A. Benetazzo and Bertrand Chapron},
  journal = {Geophysical Research Letters},
  year = {2026},
  month = nov,
  doi = {10.1029/2026gl122293},
  url = {https://hal.science/hal-05854089v1},
  note = {CC BY-NC 4.0},
}
RIS
TY  - JOUR
TI  - Geometry of Breaking Waves Under Natural Sea Conditions
AU  - P. V. Guimaraes
AU  - C. E. Stringari
AU  - J-F Filipot
AU  - Fabien Leckler
AU  - A. Benetazzo
AU  - Bertrand Chapron
PY  - 2026
DA  - 2026/11/05
JO  - Geophysical Research Letters
DO  - 10.1029/2026gl122293
UR  - https://hal.science/hal-05854089v1
AB  - Wave breaking geometry is critical for understanding air‐sea interactions, yet its characterization in the field remains limited. This study analyzes the geometry of 16,369 active breaking waves, measured via stereo imagery in the Black Sea under diverse conditions. We investigate statistical relationships between key geometric properties, including breaking length, height, and speed. Our results reveal that geometric scaling is not constant but varies with the sea state, challenging established empirical models. The data indicate a weak relationship between breaking speed and wave geometry, while internal geometric properties show stronger linear relations. A subsequent test of self‐similarity, based on a heavy‐tailed log‐normal distribution, confirmed its rarity ( of events). This comprehensive geometric description underscores that wave breaking properties are sea‐state‐dependent.
SN  - 0094-8276
SN  - 1944-8007
ER  -