Prosopis cineraria (Ghaf) Extract as a Natural Ingredient for Anti-Aging Dermocosmetic Applications
Abstract
The ecological transition of the cosmetics industry emphasizes the need for sustainable formulations based on natural raw materials without compromising efficacy. Anti-aging skincare is a major cosmetic application, as skin aging can be accelerated by oxidative stress and extracellular matrix degradation mediated by enzymes. In this context, identifying natural ingredients with antioxidant and enzyme-modulating properties is of increasing interest. Prosopis cineraria (Ghaf), the national plant of the United Arab Emirates, thrives in arid environments and is hypothesized to produce bioactive secondary metabolites. Ghaf extract was evaluated for its antioxidant potential and enzyme-modulating properties relevant to skin aging. Chemical profiling (UHPLC–DAD–HRMS/MS) revealed a polyphenol-rich composition dominated by catechins and flavonoid derivatives. The extract exhibited exceptionally high radical scavenging activity in the DPPH, ABTS and ORAC assays and showed a strong correlation with its elevated total phenolic content. In addition to antioxidant effects, Ghaf extract demonstrated biologically relevant inhibition of elastase, hyaluronidase, tyrosinase and collagenase, skin-aging-related enzymes involved in extracellular matrix degradation and pigmentation. These combined in vitro activities suggest that Ghaf extract may represent a multifunctional natural ingredient for future dermocosmetic applications. Accordingly, preliminary Pickering emulsions containing the extract were formulated and characterized to demonstrate the technological feasibility of its incorporation into a topical cosmetic vehicle. These findings warrant future studies aimed at evaluating the efficacy of Ghaf-containing formulations in cellular, ex vivo and in vivo skin models.
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BibTeX
@article{santes2026prosopis,
title = {{Prosopis cineraria (Ghaf) Extract as a Natural Ingredient for Anti-Aging Dermocosmetic Applications}},
author = {Beatrice de Santes and Lucia Morelli and Francesca Spena and Stefania Pagliari and Delphine Huc-Mathis and Guillaume Collet and Richard Daniellou and Marco Giustra and Luca Campone and Federico Cerri and Paolo Galli and Davide Prosperi and Lucia Salvioni and Miriam Colombo},
journal = {Antioxidants},
year = {2026},
month = jul,
doi = {10.3390/antiox15080938},
url = {https://agroparistech.hal.science/hal-05770318v1},
note = {CC BY 4.0},
}
RIS
TY - JOUR
TI - Prosopis cineraria (Ghaf) Extract as a Natural Ingredient for Anti-Aging Dermocosmetic Applications
AU - Beatrice de Santes
AU - Lucia Morelli
AU - Francesca Spena
AU - Stefania Pagliari
AU - Delphine Huc-Mathis
AU - Guillaume Collet
AU - Richard Daniellou
AU - Marco Giustra
AU - Luca Campone
AU - Federico Cerri
AU - Paolo Galli
AU - Davide Prosperi
AU - Lucia Salvioni
AU - Miriam Colombo
PY - 2026
DA - 2026/07/29
JO - Antioxidants
DO - 10.3390/antiox15080938
UR - https://agroparistech.hal.science/hal-05770318v1
AB - The ecological transition of the cosmetics industry emphasizes the need for sustainable formulations based on natural raw materials without compromising efficacy. Anti-aging skincare is a major cosmetic application, as skin aging can be accelerated by oxidative stress and extracellular matrix degradation mediated by enzymes. In this context, identifying natural ingredients with antioxidant and enzyme-modulating properties is of increasing interest. Prosopis cineraria (Ghaf), the national plant of the United Arab Emirates, thrives in arid environments and is hypothesized to produce bioactive secondary metabolites. Ghaf extract was evaluated for its antioxidant potential and enzyme-modulating properties relevant to skin aging. Chemical profiling (UHPLC–DAD–HRMS/MS) revealed a polyphenol-rich composition dominated by catechins and flavonoid derivatives. The extract exhibited exceptionally high radical scavenging activity in the DPPH, ABTS and ORAC assays and showed a strong correlation with its elevated total phenolic content. In addition to antioxidant effects, Ghaf extract demonstrated biologically relevant inhibition of elastase, hyaluronidase, tyrosinase and collagenase, skin-aging-related enzymes involved in extracellular matrix degradation and pigmentation. These combined in vitro activities suggest that Ghaf extract may represent a multifunctional natural ingredient for future dermocosmetic applications. Accordingly, preliminary Pickering emulsions containing the extract were formulated and characterized to demonstrate the technological feasibility of its incorporation into a topical cosmetic vehicle. These findings warrant future studies aimed at evaluating the efficacy of Ghaf-containing formulations in cellular, ex vivo and in vivo skin models.
SN - 2076-3921
SN - 2076-3921
ER -