Development of a Pigment-Correcting Serum Addressing Key Pathways in the Melanin Life Cycle.
- 1Research and Development, Skincare, Allergan Aesthetics, an AbbVie company, Irvine, CA, USA.
- 2Department of Dermatology, College of Medicine, University of Cincinnati, Cincinnati, OH, USA.
- 3Executive Leadership, Tioga Research, Inc., San Diego, CA, USA.
Abstract
Hyperpigmentation is a difficult-to-manage chronic condition typically treated using topical agents and cosmetic procedures. Topical treatments frequently include hydroquinone (HQ) 4%, which is limited by tolerability concerns for long-term use. Therefore, HQ-free cosmeceutical topical treatments for long-term control of hyperpigmentation are needed. This exploratory study sought to characterize the potential mechanism of action of a novel, cosmetic, topical, HQ-free, pigment-correcting serum formulated with lotus sprout extract, tranexamic acid (TXA), and niacinamide (LTN) designed to target 6 key cellular pathways of the melanin life cycle aimed at improving the appearance of skin hyperpigmentation. In vitro studies were conducted using the MelanoDerm human skin model. Gene expression, melanin concentrations, and histology were assessed after treatment with LTN serum or commercially available comparator formulations; samples were also examined with individual typology angle (ITA) and electron microscopy. Delivery and skin penetration of TXA and phenylethyl resorcinol (PER) were assessed using Franz-type diffusion cells. LTN serum significantly (P≤0.05) decreased expression of genes associated with melanogenesis. Median ITAs indicated paler skin color when treated with LTN serum compared with control (51.3° vs 28.9°). Electron micrographs demonstrated that LTN serum affected melanosome development and promoted melanosome degradation in melanocytes and keratinocytes. The LTN serum formulation is optimally designed to facilitate delivery of TXA and PER into epidermis and dermis. LTN serum led to greater inhibition of melanin production versus comparator formulations. LTN serum is the first topical to target 6 key pathways in the melanin life cycle, including melanosome degradation, aimed at improving the appearance of hyperpigmentation. Overall, our in vitro results reinforce observed clinical efficacy while providing further mechanistic insights into LTN serum treatment effects. The LTN serum may be a potential long-term, HQ-free treatment option for patients with hyperpigmentation.
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BibTeX
@article{kadoya2026development,
title = {{Development of a Pigment-Correcting Serum Addressing Key Pathways in the Melanin Life Cycle.}},
author = {Kuniko Kadoya and Patrick Nido and Robin Chung and Raymond E Boissy and Edward T Kisak and Khadija Nader and John M Newsam and Tsing Cheng and Rahul C Mehta and Prithwiraj Maitra},
journal = {Clinical, cosmetic and investigational dermatology},
year = {2026},
month = nov,
doi = {10.2147/ccid.s552759},
url = {https://europepmc.org/article/MED/42999605},
note = {CC BY-NC},
}
RIS
TY - JOUR
TI - Development of a Pigment-Correcting Serum Addressing Key Pathways in the Melanin Life Cycle.
AU - Kuniko Kadoya
AU - Patrick Nido
AU - Robin Chung
AU - Raymond E Boissy
AU - Edward T Kisak
AU - Khadija Nader
AU - John M Newsam
AU - Tsing Cheng
AU - Rahul C Mehta
AU - Prithwiraj Maitra
PY - 2026
DA - 2026/11/03
JO - Clinical, cosmetic and investigational dermatology
DO - 10.2147/ccid.s552759
UR - https://europepmc.org/article/MED/42999605
AB - Hyperpigmentation is a difficult-to-manage chronic condition typically treated using topical agents and cosmetic procedures. Topical treatments frequently include hydroquinone (HQ) 4%, which is limited by tolerability concerns for long-term use. Therefore, HQ-free cosmeceutical topical treatments for long-term control of hyperpigmentation are needed. This exploratory study sought to characterize the potential mechanism of action of a novel, cosmetic, topical, HQ-free, pigment-correcting serum formulated with lotus sprout extract, tranexamic acid (TXA), and niacinamide (LTN) designed to target 6 key cellular pathways of the melanin life cycle aimed at improving the appearance of skin hyperpigmentation. In vitro studies were conducted using the MelanoDerm human skin model. Gene expression, melanin concentrations, and histology were assessed after treatment with LTN serum or commercially available comparator formulations; samples were also examined with individual typology angle (ITA) and electron microscopy. Delivery and skin penetration of TXA and phenylethyl resorcinol (PER) were assessed using Franz-type diffusion cells. LTN serum significantly (P≤0.05) decreased expression of genes associated with melanogenesis. Median ITAs indicated paler skin color when treated with LTN serum compared with control (51.3° vs 28.9°). Electron micrographs demonstrated that LTN serum affected melanosome development and promoted melanosome degradation in melanocytes and keratinocytes. The LTN serum formulation is optimally designed to facilitate delivery of TXA and PER into epidermis and dermis. LTN serum led to greater inhibition of melanin production versus comparator formulations. LTN serum is the first topical to target 6 key pathways in the melanin life cycle, including melanosome degradation, aimed at improving the appearance of hyperpigmentation. Overall, our in vitro results reinforce observed clinical efficacy while providing further mechanistic insights into LTN serum treatment effects. The LTN serum may be a potential long-term, HQ-free treatment option for patients with hyperpigmentation.
SN - 1178-7015
ER -