Tracking Base Note Persistence in Fragrances by Time‐Resolved Analysis: Revealing Ingredient Contributions
Abstract
The persistence of fragrance raw materials on substrates is a key parameter in fine perfumery. However, the analytical investigation of fragrance longevity remains challenging, particularly for base‐note ingredients characterized by low volatility and high substantivity. In the present study, an analytical strategy combining dynamic headspace sampling with thermal desorption unit (DHS‐TDU) and a sequential mass‐balance approach was developed to investigate the release behaviour of ambrettolide and ethylene brassylate deposited from a perfume matrix onto paper blotters. Successive DHS‐TDU extractions enabled differentiation between immediately extractable fractions, delayed recoverable fractions and strongly retained fractions. The developed methodology demonstrated that the analytical response obtained after a single extraction step does not necessarily reflect the total amount of fragrance compound initially deposited, particularly in the presence of formulation technologies designed to enhance fragrance persistence. The developed approach was subsequently applied to evaluate the effect of a fragrance longevity technology on release kinetics over time. Comparative experiments in the presence and absence of the technology revealed progressive modification of the release profiles of both compounds, with residual retention effects ranging from 8% to 12% after 8 h of evaporation. Sequential extraction experiments demonstrated enhanced substrate retention and reduced analytical accessibility of ethylene brassylate in the presence of the technology. Overall, this work provides an analytical framework for quantitatively investigating fragrance release kinetics and substantivity in fine perfumery. The proposed DHS‐TDU mass‐balance strategy offers new perspectives for the objective evaluation of fragrance long‐lasting technologies and understanding of the physicochemical mechanisms governing fragrance persistence on substrates.
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BibTeX
@article{malhiac2026tracking,
title = {{Tracking Base Note Persistence in Fragrances by Time‐Resolved Analysis: Revealing Ingredient Contributions}},
author = {Catherine Malhiac and Charbel Hawko and Jennifer Buzzi and Haris Laghouati and Christophe Marin and Géraldine Savary},
journal = {Flavour and Fragrance Journal},
year = {2026},
month = sep,
doi = {10.1002/ffj.70155},
url = {https://hal.science/hal-05742208v1},
note = {CC BY 4.0},
}
RIS
TY - JOUR
TI - Tracking Base Note Persistence in Fragrances by Time‐Resolved Analysis: Revealing Ingredient Contributions
AU - Catherine Malhiac
AU - Charbel Hawko
AU - Jennifer Buzzi
AU - Haris Laghouati
AU - Christophe Marin
AU - Géraldine Savary
PY - 2026
DA - 2026/09/08
JO - Flavour and Fragrance Journal
DO - 10.1002/ffj.70155
UR - https://hal.science/hal-05742208v1
AB - The persistence of fragrance raw materials on substrates is a key parameter in fine perfumery. However, the analytical investigation of fragrance longevity remains challenging, particularly for base‐note ingredients characterized by low volatility and high substantivity. In the present study, an analytical strategy combining dynamic headspace sampling with thermal desorption unit (DHS‐TDU) and a sequential mass‐balance approach was developed to investigate the release behaviour of ambrettolide and ethylene brassylate deposited from a perfume matrix onto paper blotters. Successive DHS‐TDU extractions enabled differentiation between immediately extractable fractions, delayed recoverable fractions and strongly retained fractions. The developed methodology demonstrated that the analytical response obtained after a single extraction step does not necessarily reflect the total amount of fragrance compound initially deposited, particularly in the presence of formulation technologies designed to enhance fragrance persistence. The developed approach was subsequently applied to evaluate the effect of a fragrance longevity technology on release kinetics over time. Comparative experiments in the presence and absence of the technology revealed progressive modification of the release profiles of both compounds, with residual retention effects ranging from 8% to 12% after 8 h of evaporation. Sequential extraction experiments demonstrated enhanced substrate retention and reduced analytical accessibility of ethylene brassylate in the presence of the technology. Overall, this work provides an analytical framework for quantitatively investigating fragrance release kinetics and substantivity in fine perfumery. The proposed DHS‐TDU mass‐balance strategy offers new perspectives for the objective evaluation of fragrance long‐lasting technologies and understanding of the physicochemical mechanisms governing fragrance persistence on substrates.
SN - 0882-5734
SN - 1099-1026
ER -