Development of Cosmetic Emulsions Enriched with Pinus nigra Extracts Prepared by Different Extraction Approaches: Physicochemical Stability, Biological Activity and Taxifolin Permeability
- 1Laboratory of Chemistry and Technology of Polymers and Dyes, Department of Chemistry, Aristotle University of Thessaloniki, 54124 Thessaloniki, Greece
- 2Department of Pharmacognosy and Biomaterials, Poznan University of Medical Sciences, Rokietnicka 3, 60-806 Poznan, Poland
Abstract
The growing demand for natural cosmetic ingredients has increased interest in plant-derived extracts with multifunctional biological properties. In this study, oil-in-water (O/W) cosmetic emulsions containing Pinus nigra needle extracts obtained by different extraction methods (Soxhlet, reflux, hot oil maceration, and cold oil maceration) and a commercially available essential oil were developed and comprehensively characterized. The formulations were evaluated for physicochemical stability (pH, viscosity, and color), total phenolic content (TPC), taxifolin content, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and anti-tyrosinase activities, as well as taxifolin permeability using the Skin-PAMPA model. Water-based extracts, particularly the reflux extract, exhibited the highest TPC (8.02 ± 0.63 mg GAE/mL cream), while formulations containing water extracts demonstrated the greatest antioxidant activity (79.72 ± 5.38% (reflux) and 76.78 ± 4.36% (soxhlet) DPPH inhibition). In contrast, oil-based extracts showed higher anti-inflammatory activity, with hyaluronidase inhibition reaching 85.25 ± 0.89%, and enhanced taxifolin permeability (50.56 ± 2.82 × 10−6 cm/s). Principal component analysis indicated a positive correlation between TPC and antioxidant activity (r = 0.806), whereas permeability was negatively correlated with TPC and antioxidant activity but positively associated with oil-based formulations. All emulsions exhibited satisfactory physicochemical stability during storage. Different extraction approaches were associated with distinct chemical and functional profiles of the resulting P. nigra-based cosmetic emulsions.
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BibTeX
@article{bikiaris2026development,
title = {{Development of Cosmetic Emulsions Enriched with Pinus nigra Extracts Prepared by Different Extraction Approaches: Physicochemical Stability, Biological Activity and Taxifolin Permeability}},
author = {Nikolaos Bikiaris and Magdalena Paczkowska-Walendowska and Judyta Cielecka-Piontek and Nikolaos Nikolaidis},
journal = {International Journal of Molecular Sciences},
year = {2026},
month = oct,
doi = {10.3390/ijms27198877},
url = {https://www.mdpi.com/1422-0067/27/19/8877},
note = {CC BY 4.0},
}
RIS
TY - JOUR
TI - Development of Cosmetic Emulsions Enriched with Pinus nigra Extracts Prepared by Different Extraction Approaches: Physicochemical Stability, Biological Activity and Taxifolin Permeability
AU - Nikolaos Bikiaris
AU - Magdalena Paczkowska-Walendowska
AU - Judyta Cielecka-Piontek
AU - Nikolaos Nikolaidis
PY - 2026
DA - 2026/10/06
JO - International Journal of Molecular Sciences
DO - 10.3390/ijms27198877
UR - https://www.mdpi.com/1422-0067/27/19/8877
AB - The growing demand for natural cosmetic ingredients has increased interest in plant-derived extracts with multifunctional biological properties. In this study, oil-in-water (O/W) cosmetic emulsions containing Pinus nigra needle extracts obtained by different extraction methods (Soxhlet, reflux, hot oil maceration, and cold oil maceration) and a commercially available essential oil were developed and comprehensively characterized. The formulations were evaluated for physicochemical stability (pH, viscosity, and color), total phenolic content (TPC), taxifolin content, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and anti-tyrosinase activities, as well as taxifolin permeability using the Skin-PAMPA model. Water-based extracts, particularly the reflux extract, exhibited the highest TPC (8.02 ± 0.63 mg GAE/mL cream), while formulations containing water extracts demonstrated the greatest antioxidant activity (79.72 ± 5.38% (reflux) and 76.78 ± 4.36% (soxhlet) DPPH inhibition). In contrast, oil-based extracts showed higher anti-inflammatory activity, with hyaluronidase inhibition reaching 85.25 ± 0.89%, and enhanced taxifolin permeability (50.56 ± 2.82 × 10−6 cm/s). Principal component analysis indicated a positive correlation between TPC and antioxidant activity (r = 0.806), whereas permeability was negatively correlated with TPC and antioxidant activity but positively associated with oil-based formulations. All emulsions exhibited satisfactory physicochemical stability during storage. Different extraction approaches were associated with distinct chemical and functional profiles of the resulting P. nigra-based cosmetic emulsions.
SN - 1422-0067
ER -