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Peer-reviewedCC BYLife (Basel, Switzerland)

Peptides in Aesthetic Dermatology: Classification, Fibroblast-Centered Mechanisms, Delivery Technologies, and Clinical Evidence.

  • Kyu-Ho Yi1
  • Hong Seok Kim2
  • Han Earl Lee3
  • Won Seok Choi4
  • Jin-Hyun Kim5
5 affiliations
  1. 1Department of Oral Biology, Yonsei University College of Dentistry, Seoul 03722, Republic of Korea.
  2. 2VOS Dermatology Clinic, Seoul 06021, Republic of Korea.
  3. 3Re & Re Plastic Surgery Clinic, Seoul 06038, Republic of Korea.
  4. 4V Plastic Surgery, Daegu 41940, Republic of Korea.
  5. 5You and I Clinic, Seoul 06123, Republic of Korea.
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Abstract

Peptides used in aesthetic dermatology differ in molecular identity, biological target, formulation, and route of administration. This critical narrative review classifies these agents and examines their direct or indirect relationships with dermal fibroblasts, integrating mechanistic, delivery, and clinical evidence. Matrikine-like and copper-binding peptides influence matrix-related responses in experimental systems, whereas neuromodulatory and pigment-modulating peptides primarily act through other cellular targets. Oral collagen hydrolysates provide amino acids and circulating hydroxyproline-containing peptides with fibroblast activity demonstrated mainly in preclinical models. Lipidation, encapsulation, and microneedles can modify exposure, but delivery-system effects complicate attribution to the peptide. Controlled human studies report improvements in selected skin endpoints, including wrinkles, hydration, elasticity, dermal density, and pigmentation; however, many trials are limited by small samples, short follow-up, industry sponsorship, or multi-ingredient formulations. Current evidence supports product-specific interpretation rather than interchangeability across peptide classes or administration routes. It does not establish universal purity thresholds, commercial shelf lives, or safety of degraded formulations. Future studies should connect characterized composition and verified exposure with cell-specific mechanisms, objective clinical outcomes, and route-appropriate safety assessment.

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Cite

BibTeXRIS
BibTeX
@article{yi2026peptides,
  title = {{Peptides in Aesthetic Dermatology: Classification, Fibroblast-Centered Mechanisms, Delivery Technologies, and Clinical Evidence.}},
  author = {Kyu-Ho Yi and Hong Seok Kim and Han Earl Lee and Won Seok Choi and Jin-Hyun Kim},
  journal = {Life (Basel, Switzerland)},
  year = {2026},
  month = oct,
  doi = {10.3390/life16101660},
  url = {https://europepmc.org/article/MED/42942246},
  note = {CC BY},
}
RIS
TY  - JOUR
TI  - Peptides in Aesthetic Dermatology: Classification, Fibroblast-Centered Mechanisms, Delivery Technologies, and Clinical Evidence.
AU  - Kyu-Ho Yi
AU  - Hong Seok Kim
AU  - Han Earl Lee
AU  - Won Seok Choi
AU  - Jin-Hyun Kim
PY  - 2026
DA  - 2026/10/02
JO  - Life (Basel, Switzerland)
DO  - 10.3390/life16101660
UR  - https://europepmc.org/article/MED/42942246
AB  - Peptides used in aesthetic dermatology differ in molecular identity, biological target, formulation, and route of administration. This critical narrative review classifies these agents and examines their direct or indirect relationships with dermal fibroblasts, integrating mechanistic, delivery, and clinical evidence. Matrikine-like and copper-binding peptides influence matrix-related responses in experimental systems, whereas neuromodulatory and pigment-modulating peptides primarily act through other cellular targets. Oral collagen hydrolysates provide amino acids and circulating hydroxyproline-containing peptides with fibroblast activity demonstrated mainly in preclinical models. Lipidation, encapsulation, and microneedles can modify exposure, but delivery-system effects complicate attribution to the peptide. Controlled human studies report improvements in selected skin endpoints, including wrinkles, hydration, elasticity, dermal density, and pigmentation; however, many trials are limited by small samples, short follow-up, industry sponsorship, or multi-ingredient formulations. Current evidence supports product-specific interpretation rather than interchangeability across peptide classes or administration routes. It does not establish universal purity thresholds, commercial shelf lives, or safety of degraded formulations. Future studies should connect characterized composition and verified exposure with cell-specific mechanisms, objective clinical outcomes, and route-appropriate safety assessment.
SN  - 2075-1729
ER  -